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The Algarve I Wish I'd Found Sooner

Portugal's south coast delivered everything I didn't know I needed — cliff-backed beaches, hidden caves you can only reach by boat, and that specific kind of beauty that makes you cancel your return flight.

10 June 2021guide11 min read

The Algarve I Wish I'd Found Sooner

I've been to Portugal three times before — Lisbon twice, Porto once — and somehow managed to completely overlook the Algarve. This feels like the kind of travel mistake you make when you're too focused on the famous cities and forget that sometimes the best parts of a country are the ones everyone talks about less.

The Algarve is Portugal's south coast, and it's stunning. Not in the dramatic, cliff-edge, gasp-inducing way that makes you pull out your phone immediately (though there's plenty of that too). More in the warm, golden, why would I ever leave way that makes you start looking at property listings.

I spent a week based in the Faro area, exploring beaches, taking boat tours to caves I didn't know existed, and falling completely in love with a part of Portugal that deserves way more attention than it gets.

Why the Algarve Works

Here's what the Algarve has that other beach destinations often lack: variety.

You want dramatic cliff-backed beaches with turquoise water? Got it.

Hidden coves you can only access by boat or kayak? Everywhere.

Charming towns with cobblestone streets and incredible seafood? Multiple options.

Warm weather basically year-round? Check.

And here's the thing that really sold me: it's accessible for everyone. I went solo, but I kept thinking how perfect this would be for couples, for friends, for families. The infrastructure is there, the beaches are safe, and there's this easy, welcoming vibe that makes you feel at home immediately.

Praia da Marinha: The Beach That Ruins Other Beaches

Let me start with the highlight: Praia da Marinha.

I've been to a lot of beaches. I've done the whole "top 10 beaches in the world" thing. But Praia da Marinha is genuinely one of my favourites, and I'm including Caribbean beaches, Greek islands, and that one perfect beach in Thailand everyone posts about.

It's about 50 minutes from Faro by car, tucked along the coast near Lagoa. The approach gives you no warning — you park, walk down a stairway carved into the cliffs, and suddenly you're standing in front of this absolutely breathtaking scene.

Golden limestone cliffs frame the beach on both sides. Rock formations jut out of the turquoise water like sculptures. The sand is soft and golden. The water is that specific shade of blue-green that looks Photoshopped but is somehow real.

I spent an entire afternoon there and could have stayed longer.

What Makes It Special:

  • The cliff views — bring a camera, you'll want documentation
  • Rock formations and arches in the water (some accessible at low tide)
  • Clear, calm water perfect for swimming and snorkeling
  • Not as crowded as you'd expect for something this beautiful (though summer weekends do get busy)
  • Facilities are basic but sufficient (bathrooms, small café, lifeguards in season)

When to Go:

  • Early morning (8-9am) for the best light and smallest crowds
  • Late afternoon for golden hour photography
  • Avoid peak summer weekends if possible (June mid-week was perfect)

How to Get There:

  • Rent a car (easiest option, parking available near the beach)
  • Tour groups stop here, but they're on schedules so they don't linger
  • The walk down is steep but manageable — just be ready for the climb back up

The Boat Tours (Seriously, Don't Skip This)

One of the best decisions I made in the Algarve was booking a boat tour along the coast.

Here's why this matters: some of the most beautiful beaches, caves, and rock formations are completely inaccessible unless you have a boat or kayak. You can see glimpses from the clifftops, but to actually experience them — to float into hidden caves, see the grottos from inside, reach the secret beaches — you need to be on the water.

I did a half-day tour departing from Lagos (about 1.5 hours from Faro) that took us along the Ponta da Piedade coastline. We went into sea caves with openings carved by centuries of waves, saw rock arches big enough to sail through, and stopped at beaches that had maybe five other people total.

The water is so clear you can see straight to the bottom. The rock formations are surreal — layers of golden limestone stacked like geological layer cake, carved into shapes that look intentional but are just nature being dramatic.

Tour Options:

  • Group boat tours — Budget-friendly, social atmosphere, still gets you to all the spots (what I did)
  • Private boat tours — More expensive, more flexibility, worth it for couples or small groups
  • Kayak tours — More active, slower pace, you're paddling yourself into the caves
  • Stand-up paddleboard — For the adventurous and balanced

What to Know:

  • Tours run from multiple towns (Lagos, Portimão, Albufeira)
  • Morning tours usually have calmer water
  • Bring sunscreen, hat, and something for your phone/camera (you'll want photos)
  • Some caves are only accessible at certain tides — the guides know the timing
  • Duration: 1.5 to 3 hours typically

Booking:

  • You can book in advance online or just show up at the marina and book same-day (I did the latter in June and had no issues)
  • Prices range from €20-40 for group tours, more for private

Faro: The Base You'll Underestimate

Most people fly into Faro and immediately leave for the beach towns. I stayed in Faro itself and it turned out to be a perfect base.

The old town is charming — cobblestone streets, traditional Portuguese tiles (azulejos) on buildings, orange trees lining the squares, and this lived-in feel that tourist-heavy towns lose. There are great restaurants, a beautiful marina, and it's genuinely pleasant to walk around in the evening.

It's also central — you can reach beaches in 20-40 minutes by car, and it's well-connected by bus if you're not renting a car.

What I Loved About Faro:

  • Less touristy than Lagos or Albufeira
  • Excellent seafood (I ate grilled fish and octopus every other day)
  • The Ria Formosa Natural Park — a coastal lagoon system with boat tours, flamingos, and barrier islands
  • Easy access to both the coast and inland towns
  • Locals actually live here, not just tourists passing through

Where to Eat:

  • Faz Gostos — Modern Portuguese, excellent wine list, locals eat here
  • Adega Nova — Traditional tasca (tavern), no-frills, delicious food
  • Columbus — Seafood by the marina, simple and fresh

Beyond Praia da Marinha: Other Beaches Worth Your Time

The Algarve has hundreds of beaches. Here are the ones I'd go back to:

Praia da Falésia

Long, wide stretch of sand backed by red-orange cliffs. It's popular but big enough that it never feels overcrowded. Great for long walks, and the cliff colours at sunset are incredible.

Praia de Benagil

Famous for the Benagil Cave — a massive sea cave with a circular opening in the ceiling that lets sunlight pour in. You've definitely seen photos of it. Access is by boat, kayak, or swimming (if you're a strong swimmer and the conditions are right). The beach itself is small but the cave is the main event.

Praia do Camilo

Small, picturesque beach near Lagos with dramatic rock formations and clear water. You have to descend a long wooden staircase (about 200 steps), which keeps the crowds slightly smaller. Worth the climb.

Praia da Rocha

If you want a bigger beach with more facilities, beach clubs, and activity, this is your spot. It's in Portimão and feels more resort-y, but the beach itself is beautiful and the atmosphere is lively.

What to Do Besides Beaches

As much as I love a good beach day, here's what else the Algarve offers:

Lagos Old Town: Beautiful historic centre with cafés, restaurants, and that Portuguese charm. Good for an afternoon wander.

Sagres: The southwestern tip of Portugal (and mainland Europe). Dramatic cliffs, strong winds, big waves, and an end-of-the-world vibe that's quite special.

Wine Tasting: The Algarve produces wine (who knew?). There are vineyards inland offering tastings — I didn't make it to any but heard good things.

Hiking: Coastal trails along the cliffs offer stunning views. The Seven Hanging Valleys Trail is famous for good reason.

Seafood: This should be an activity. Fresh fish, octopus, clams, prawns — eat it all.

When to Go

I visited in early June and the weather was perfect — warm but not scorching, beach-friendly, and not yet peak tourist season.

Best Times:

  • May-June: Warm, pleasant, fewer crowds, everything is open
  • September-October: Still warm, water is warmest after summer heating up, fewer tourists
  • July-August: Peak season, hot, crowded, prices higher (but guaranteed good weather)

Winter (November-March): Mild, quiet, some businesses close, but still pleasant if you're not focused solely on beach time. You can often find winter sun here when northern Europe is grey.

Getting Around

Rent a car. Seriously, just do it.

The Algarve is spread out, public transport exists but is slow, and having your own car gives you the freedom to explore hidden beaches, cliff viewpoints, and towns at your own pace.

Driving is easy — roads are well-maintained, signage is clear, and Portuguese drivers are generally reasonable (unlike, say, Italy).

Without a car: Buses connect major towns, Uber exists in bigger cities, and organized tours can get you to main attractions. But you'll miss the spontaneous "let's stop at this beach" moments that make road trips special.

Where to Stay

I based myself in Faro (central, authentic, less touristy), but here are other solid options:

Lagos: Best for nightlife, social atmosphere, lots of tour options, young crowd

Albufeira: Popular, plenty of hotels and restaurants, family-friendly, busy in summer

Tavira: Quieter, traditional, beautiful old town, good for slower pace

Sagres: Remote, dramatic, surfer vibe, end-of-the-world atmosphere

Carvoeiro: Small, charming, clifftop walks, good middle ground between busy and quiet

Pick based on your vibe. You can't really go wrong — everywhere has beach access.

The Algarve vs. Other Beach Destinations

Having done Greek islands, Croatian coast, Italian Riviera, and various Caribbean spots, here's how the Algarve compares:

Better than most for:

  • Accessibility (easy to reach, well-developed infrastructure)
  • Value (cheaper than France/Italy for similar quality)
  • Variety of beaches (cliffs, caves, golden sand, hidden coves)
  • Year-round weather (you can visit outside peak season comfortably)

Different from:

  • Greek Islands (less island-hopping, more mainland convenience)
  • Caribbean (cooler water, more dramatic landscapes, European culture)
  • Croatia (warmer vibe, better infrastructure, less trendy/crowded)

Who It's Perfect For:

  • Couples seeking romance and beauty without the Italian/French price tag
  • Families wanting safe, accessible beaches with good facilities
  • Friends on a beach holiday that's not just party-focused (though Lagos has nightlife if you want it)
  • Solo travelers who want easy, safe, beautiful coastal exploration

Why I Wish I'd Come Sooner

I've wasted trips. We all have. Places that looked good on paper but didn't deliver. Places you visit once and immediately forget.

The Algarve is the opposite. It's the place I should have visited years ago, the one I'll recommend unprompted, the one that made me rethink Portugal entirely.

It's stunning without being pretentious. Accessible without being touristy. Beautiful without trying too hard.

And Praia da Marinha alone is worth the flight.


Practical Summary

Getting There:

  • Fly into Faro (FAO) — direct flights from most European cities
  • Lisbon is 2.5-3 hours away by car if you want to combine both

How Long:

  • Minimum: 4-5 days for a taste
  • Ideal: 7-10 days to explore properly without rushing

Budget:

  • Mid-range: €80-120/day (accommodation, food, car rental, activities)
  • Luxury: €200+/day (nicer hotels, private tours, upscale dining)

Must-Do:

  • Praia da Marinha (absolute non-negotiable)
  • Boat tour to caves and hidden beaches
  • Fresh seafood at a local restaurant
  • At least one clifftop sunset

Pack:

  • Reef-safe sunscreen (protect the ocean)
  • Comfortable sandals for beach stairs and cobblestone towns
  • Light layers for evening (coastal breeze)
  • Underwater camera or phone case for boat tours

Final Thoughts

Some places surprise you. The Algarve was one of them.

I came expecting nice beaches and decent weather. I left with a mental list of spots I want to return to, photos that make me nostalgic every time they pop up, and the firm belief that Portugal's south coast is criminally underrated.

If you've done Lisbon and Porto and think you've "done Portugal," you haven't. Not really.

The Algarve is waiting.


Questions about the Algarve? Find me on Instagram — I actually respond to DMs about this stuff.

— Teona x

Written by Teona

Travel writer & content creator based in London. Follow along on Instagram.