Santorini's Secret: The Dinner Spot Everyone Misses
Santorini is one of those places that looks exactly like the photos. White-washed buildings, blue-domed churches, cliffs dropping into the Aegean Sea, sunsets that make you understand why people propose here.
It's also one of those places where everyone goes to the same spots, takes the same photos, and misses some genuinely special experiences because they're following the Instagram map.
I'm going to tell you about one of those experiences: Ammoudi Bay.
It's not a secret — locals know it, anyone who's researched beyond "top 10 Santorini" lists knows it — but most tourists stay up in Oia for sunset, eat at the cliff-edge restaurants charging premium prices for the view, and never make the walk down to the small fishing harbour where the best meal I had in Santorini was waiting.
The Walk Down (And Why It's Worth It)
Ammoudi Bay sits at the base of Oia, about 300 steps down a winding stone staircase that hugs the cliff face.
It's steep. It's a proper descent. And yes, you'll feel it on the way back up (especially after dinner and wine).
But here's what makes it worth every single step:
The views. As you walk down, you get these incredible angles of Oia from below — the white buildings stacked up the cliff, the blue domes, the terraces. It's a completely different perspective than the classic sunset viewpoint, and honestly, I found it more interesting.
The photo spots. The staircase itself is beautiful. Traditional Cycladic architecture, colourful doors, bougainvillaea spilling over walls. You'll want to stop multiple times, not just because you're out of breath, but because the scenes are genuinely picturesque.
The horses. There are horses that carry tourists up and down, and they're wearing these bright, colourful saddles and decorations. It's a very Santorini scene — photogenic, traditional, a little chaotic. The horses know the route better than anyone.
The anticipation. By the time you reach the bottom, you feel like you've earned whatever's waiting for you. And what's waiting is genuinely worth it.
Dimitris Ammoudi Taverna: The Real Reason to Make the Walk
There are a few restaurants down in Ammoudi Bay, all serving fresh seafood right by the water. I ate at Dimitris Ammoudi Taverna, and it was hands-down the best food I had in Santorini.
Not just good. Not "good for a tourist spot." Actually, genuinely excellent.
Here's why Dimitris works:
The fish is fresh. We're talking caught-that-morning fresh. You can see fishing boats right there in the harbour. The restaurant has been family-run for decades, and they know fish.
The setting. You're sitting right on the water — literally, the tables are metres from the Aegean. Waves lap at the rocks below. The sun sets behind the cliffs. It's romantic without being cheesy, beautiful without trying too hard.
The service. Greek hospitality is real, and Dimitris delivers. The staff are warm, knowledgeable, and genuinely want you to have a good experience. They'll recommend dishes, explain preparations, and treat you like you're a regular even if it's your first visit.
The crowd. Because most tourists don't bother with the walk down, you get a mix of locals, informed travelers, and people who actually researched where to eat. It feels more authentic, less "Instagram crowd doing the thing."
What to Order at Dimitris
I'm not a food blogger, but I know good seafood, and Dimitris serves some of the best I've had in Greece.
The grilled octopus — Tender, smoky, perfectly charred. Simple preparation that lets the octopus shine.
Fresh fish of the day — They'll bring out the catch and you pick what you want. It's priced by weight. Go for the sea bass or sea bream, grilled with lemon and olive oil.
Santorini tomato fritters (domatokeftedes) — Local specialty, and Dimitris does them perfectly. Sweet tomatoes, crispy outside, soft inside.
Fava — Santorini's famous yellow split pea purée. Creamy, earthy, addictive with bread.
Greek salad — Obvious choice, but the tomatoes in Santorini are exceptional (volcanic soil) and you'll taste the difference.
Local wine — Santorini produces excellent white wine. Ask for Assyrtiko, the local grape. Crisp, mineral, perfect with seafood.
The Sunset Experience
Here's the thing about Ammoudi Bay: you get sunset, but from a completely different angle than Oia.
Instead of watching the sun drop into the sea from above, you're down at sea level. The light hits the cliffs behind you, turning everything golden and pink. The water glows. The boats bob gently in the harbour. And you're sitting there with fresh fish, cold wine, and this overwhelming sense that you found the right spot.
Is the Oia sunset iconic? Yes. Is it worth seeing? Absolutely. But Ammoudi Bay gives you sunset PLUS an incredible dinner in a setting that feels intimate and special rather than crowded and performative.
Timing tip: Book a table for about an hour before sunset (summer: 7:30-8pm, spring/fall: 7pm, winter: 6pm). You'll have time to settle in, order, and get your first course before the light gets really good.
The Other Ammoudi Bay Restaurants
Dimitris is my pick, but here are the other options down there:
Katina's Taverna — Right next to Dimitris, similarly excellent seafood. Some people swear by Katina's. I've heard it's equally good, just a slightly different vibe. You can't go wrong with either.
Sunset Taverna — A bit further down the bay, more casual, still solid seafood. The name is on-the-nose but accurate.
Ammoudi Fish Tavern — Family-run, traditional, good food. Slightly less famous than Dimitris/Katina's but locals eat here.
Honestly, you could close your eyes, pick any of these, and have a great meal. I went with Dimitris based on a recommendation and would return without hesitation.
Beyond Ammoudi Bay: What Else to Do in Santorini
I'm focusing on Ammoudi because it was my favourite experience, but here's the rest of the Santorini you should know about:
Oia Sunset (Yes, Do It)
The famous sunset viewpoint in Oia is crowded, touristy, and absolutely worth experiencing once. Get there early (at least 45 minutes before sunset) to secure a good spot. The castle ruins area (Oia Castle) is the prime location, but you'll be shoulder-to-shoulder with other humans.
My advice: Do it once for the experience. Then do Ammoudi Bay for the better dinner.
Fira
The main town. Busier than Oia, more shops and restaurants, cheaper accommodation. The caldera views are equally stunning. The cable car down to the old port is fun (or you can walk/ride donkeys, but please check the animal welfare situation before supporting that).
Red Beach & White Beach
Santorini's volcanic origins mean you get beaches in colours you don't see elsewhere. Red Beach (near Akrotiri) has red volcanic rocks and cliffs — striking and unique, though the beach itself is small and gets crowded.
White Beach is accessible by boat (or a somewhat challenging hike). It's more secluded and worth it if you want a beach day away from crowds.
Akrotiri Archaeological Site
Ancient Minoan city preserved by volcanic ash (like Pompeii but older). If you're into history and archaeology, it's fascinating. If you're not, you can skip it.
Wine Tasting
Santorini produces excellent wine, particularly white wines from the Assyrtiko grape. The volcanic soil creates unique flavours — mineral, crisp, saline.
Wineries worth visiting:
- Santo Wines — Great views, decent wines, very touristy but accessible
- Venetsanos Winery — Beautiful terrace overlooking the caldera
- Estate Argyros — More serious, less touristy, better if you're a wine person
Book ahead in high season.
Hiking Fira to Oia
The caldera hike from Fira to Oia (or vice versa) is stunning. It takes 2-3 hours, follows the cliff edge, and gives you incredible views the whole way. Bring water, sun protection, and good shoes.
I didn't do it (poor planning) but heard universally good things.
Where to Stay
Oia if you want:
- The classic Santorini experience
- Sunset from your terrace
- Romance and luxury (cave hotels with infinity pools)
- To pay premium prices for that iconic view
Fira if you want:
- Central location
- More dining/nightlife options
- Easier access to other parts of the island
- Slightly lower prices
Imerovigli if you want:
- Quieter than Oia/Fira
- Still on the caldera with views
- More peaceful, upscale vibe
- Good hiking access
Perissa/Kamari if you want:
- Beach access
- Budget-friendly options
- Laid-back atmosphere
- To be away from the caldera crowds (but you'll miss the iconic views)
I stayed in Fira and was happy with that choice — central, good restaurants, easier to get around.
When to Go
Santorini is packed in summer (July-August). I visited in January, off-season, and it was quiet, mild, and pleasant — but some restaurants and hotels were closed.
Best times:
- April-May: Spring, mild weather, flowers blooming, not yet crowded
- September-October: Still warm, water is warmest, fewer tourists than summer
- June: Early summer, good weather, starting to get busy but not peak yet
Summer (July-August): Peak season. Hot, crowded, expensive. Book everything in advance.
Winter (November-March): Quiet, some closures, cheaper, mild weather. Good if you don't need beach time and prefer peace over perfect weather.
Practical Tips
Getting there:
- Fly into Santorini (JTR) — direct flights in season, connections through Athens year-round
- Ferry from Athens (about 5 hours) or other Greek islands
Getting around:
- Rent an ATV/quad bike (popular, fun, but roads are narrow and can be chaotic)
- Rent a car (easier for longer distances, more luggage space)
- Buses connect main towns (cheap, reliable, but limited routes)
- Taxis exist but can be expensive and hard to find
Booking restaurants:
- Reserve sunset dinners in advance (Dimitris, any caldera restaurant in Oia/Fira)
- Lunch spots are usually fine to walk in
- Off-season you can be more spontaneous
Pack:
- Comfortable walking shoes (cobblestones, stairs, hiking)
- Sun protection (it's intense, especially in summer)
- Light layers for evening (coastal breeze)
- Swimsuit even in shoulder season (pools are heated)
Why Ammoudi Bay Matters
I'm writing an entire guide focused on one dinner spot because that's how good it was. And because in a place as touristed as Santorini, finding experiences that feel special — not manufactured, not overcrowded, not just going through the motions — is valuable.
Ammoudi Bay delivered that.
The walk down is genuinely worth it. The views are better than the classic spots. The food is exceptional. And sitting there at sunset, with fresh fish and local wine, watching the light change and the water glow, I felt like I'd found the Santorini everyone promises but not everyone delivers.
The Move: How to Do This Right
Here's exactly how I'd structure a Santorini trip:
Day 1: Arrive, settle in Fira, explore town, casual dinner
Day 2: Beach day (Red Beach or Perissa), wine tasting in the afternoon
Day 3: Morning in Oia (walk around before crowds), lunch, rest. Sunset dinner at Dimitris Ammoudi Taverna (book in advance)
Day 4: Hike Fira to Oia (or Oia to Fira), recover by the pool
Day 5: Akrotiri site if you're interested, another beach, farewell dinner at a caldera restaurant in Fira
Adjust based on your pace. The island is small — you're never far from anything.
Final Thoughts
Santorini delivers on the hype. The views really are that stunning. The sunsets really are that good. The white-washed villages really do look like the photos.
But the best moments — the ones I remember most clearly — weren't at the famous viewpoints fighting for space with a hundred other people.
They were walking down 300 steps to a fishing harbour, sitting at a table by the water, eating the freshest fish I've had in Greece, and watching the sun turn everything gold while waves lapped at the rocks below.
That's the Santorini worth the trip.
The Essential:
- Book a table at Dimitris Ammoudi Taverna (or Katina's) for sunset
- Time it for an hour before sunset
- Order fresh fish of the day + Santorini wine
- Walk down before dinner (300 steps from Oia)
- Consider a taxi back up if you're tired/tipsy (they wait at the bottom)
- Bring a light jacket (it gets breezy after sunset)
Have Santorini questions? I'm on Instagram and actually respond to DMs.
— Teona x