The Tulum That's Still Worth Going To
I need to be upfront about Tulum: it's not what it used to be. The bohemian beach town that Instagram sold you in 2016 is now $25 cocktails, influencer photoshoots blocking the pathways, and beach clubs that cost more than nice hotels in other countries.
But — and this is important — there's still something special here. You just have to be more selective about where you go, what you pay for, and when you show up.
This is what I've learned from multiple trips to Tulum. The places that are still worth it, the ones to skip, and how to have the Tulum experience without feeling like you've been sold a very expensive, very crowded dream.
Where to Actually Stay
The hotel zone is a narrow stretch of beach road with no electricity grid (most places run on generators and solar), inconsistent Wi-Fi, and prices that would make Mykonos blush. You're paying for location and vibe. Know that going in.
Azulik — The Design Fantasy
Azulik is the place everyone recognizes from photos — the curved wooden architecture, the netted "nests" overlooking the jungle, the spa built into the trees. It's intentionally dramatic, completely adults-only, and absolutely not for everyone.
There's no electricity in the rooms. You get candlelight and oil lamps. The stairs are steep and impractical (wear the right shoes or you'll regret it). The restaurant is wildly expensive. And the whole place feels like someone's art project that you're paying to participate in.
That said, if you're into it, it's genuinely unique. I stayed here once and spent most of my time in the spa (Kin Toh, the treetop restaurant, is worth visiting even if you don't stay). The beach club, IMIX, is beautiful but overpriced even by Tulum standards.
Book: Only if you value design over comfort and you're genuinely into the "no electricity" experience. Not if you need to charge multiple devices or want practical amenities.
The reality: It's more art installation than hotel. Beautiful to experience once, probably not where I'd spend a week.
Habitas — The Social Scene
Habitas is where I go when I want Tulum's beach vibe without the pretension. It's still expensive, but it feels more authentic — communal tables at breakfast, yoga on the beach, good music, and a crowd that's there to actually enjoy themselves rather than perform for Instagram.
The rooms are simple — think elevated camping with better linens. The beach club gets lively, especially during their full moon parties and weekend DJ sets. And the Moro restaurant is genuinely one of my favorite places to eat in Tulum.
What I love about Habitas is the energy. People talk to each other. You make friends at the bar. It feels like a community rather than a collection of strangers competing for the best table.
Book: If you're social, like music, and want the beach hotel experience without the stuffiness. Not if you need absolute luxury or complete privacy.
Don't miss: The Sunday sessions. DJs, good food, and the kind of afternoon that turns into evening without you noticing.
Be Tulum — The Actual Luxury
Be Tulum is where I stay when I want proper luxury in the hotel zone. Real beds (not hammocks pretending to be beds), excellent service, a spa that knows what it's doing, and a beach setup that actually works.
The rooms are beautiful — minimalist design, private terraces, some with plunge pools. The beach club is well-organized (which matters more than you'd think when everywhere else is chaos). And the restaurant serves food that's genuinely good rather than just "good for Tulum."
It's quieter than Habitas, more polished than Azulik, and feels like a proper hotel rather than an experiential art piece. This is where I bring people who want the Tulum beach experience but also want to sleep well and shower with good water pressure.
Book: For actual comfort and luxury. When you want the Tulum location but need things to just work.
The vibe: Sophisticated, relaxed, well-managed. Adults-only and benefits from it.
La Valise — The Boutique Option
La Valise is tiny — only nine suites — which means it feels intimate and personal in a way the bigger places don't. It's right on the beach, beautifully designed, and has that boutique hotel attention to detail.
The rooftop terrace is perfect for sunset drinks. The beach setup is private and uncrowded (because there aren't many rooms to fill it). And the staff actually remembers your name and what you like to drink.
This is where I'd go for a romantic trip or when I want to feel like I've discovered something special rather than booked something popular.
Book: For romance, privacy, or when you want boutique over resort. Only nine rooms means you need to book well ahead.
Why I love it: It feels like staying at someone's very beautiful beach house. Personal, intimate, special.
The Beach Club Situation
Tulum's beach clubs are expensive. Comically so. You're paying $75-150 minimum spend per person for a beach bed, plus food and drinks on top. But some of them are worth it. Some absolutely are not.
Taboo — The Party
Taboo is Tulum's answer to the Mykonos beach club scene. Live saxophone, percussionists, dancers, and a crowd that's there to see and be seen. It's loud, energetic, and completely over-the-top.
The food is surprisingly good — Mediterranean menu with a focus on fresh seafood. The setup is beautiful (jungle meets beach club). And if you're in the mood to day-drink and dance on tables with strangers, it genuinely delivers.
When to go: Weekends, when the energy is highest. This is not a "quiet beach day" spot.
What to know: The minimum spend is real and it's high. Budget $150-200 per person minimum if you're drinking and eating. Reserve ahead or you won't get in.
Worth it? If you want the party experience, absolutely. If you want to relax with a book, hard no.
Gitano — The Jungle Chic
Gitano isn't on the beach — it's in the jungle, which gives it a different energy. It's known for mezcal (the cocktail program is excellent) and the vibe is sultry, romantic, and a bit mysterious.
Thursday nights are the move. They do a mezcal and music series that attracts a good crowd without being overwhelming. The food is solid Mexican with some creative touches. And the setting, with trees strung with lights and hidden corners for conversation, makes it feel special.
I've had some of my best Tulum nights at Gitano. It's the place I actually recommend for dinner rather than just drinks.
When to go: Thursday nights for the full experience. Weekday evenings for a quieter, more intimate vibe.
What to order: The mezcal flights (the bartenders know their stuff), and the duck carnitas are excellent.
Worth it? Yes. This is one of the few places in Tulum where the experience justifies the cost.
Vagalume — The Sunset Spot
Vagalume has the sculpture — two massive hands cradling a bridge over the water. You've seen the photo. It's iconic, it's beautiful, and yes, you'll probably take the same photo everyone else does.
But beyond the sculpture, Vagalume is a solid beach club. The food is good (Mediterranean menu, fresh seafood), the beach setup is comfortable, and the crowd tends to be a bit older and more relaxed than Taboo or Taboo.
Sunset is obviously the time to be here. The whole place glows golden, the sculpture looks incredible in that light, and if you time it right, you'll have one of those perfect Tulum moments.
When to go: Late afternoon into sunset. Book ahead for the best tables.
What to know: Minimum spend varies but expect $100+ per person. It's popular, so weekends get very busy.
Worth it? For the sunset experience and the photo, yes. For a full day, there are better options.
Coco Tulum — The Locals' Choice
Coco Tulum is where Tulum locals actually go, which tells you something. It's still a beach club with minimum spends and all that, but it's more laid-back, less performative, and the vibe is genuinely welcoming.
The food is solid. The beach is beautiful. And you won't feel like you're on a film set for someone else's Instagram content.
I bring friends here who want the beach club experience without the scene. It's relaxed, friendly, and while it's not cheap, it doesn't feel like it's actively trying to extract every peso from you.
When to go: Any day is good. It's consistent.
What to know: Still has minimum spends, but lower than Taboo or Vagalume.
Worth it? If you want a beach club day without the intensity of the party spots, yes.
Where I Actually Eat
Hartwood — The Reservation You Must Make
Hartwood is the reason people fell in love with Tulum's food scene. It's a candlelit jungle restaurant with no electricity, an open kitchen cooking over fire, and a menu that changes based on what's fresh that day.
You can't book online — you have to show up at 3pm to put your name down for dinner. Get there early. They fill up fast, and once they're full, they're full.
The food is spectacular. Wood-fired octopus, fresh fish, vegetables that taste like they were picked that morning (they probably were). Everything is cooked over wood fire, and you can taste it in the best way.
This is the meal I tell people not to miss in Tulum.
How to book: Show up at 3pm to add your name to the list. Get there early for better time slots.
What to order: Whatever fish they recommend that day. The whole grilled catch is always incredible.
Worth it? Absolutely. This is Tulum at its best.
Arca — The Special Occasion
Arca is fine dining in the jungle — open-air, candlelit, with a tasting menu that's creative and beautifully executed. It's expensive, it's refined, and it's one of the best restaurants on the Riviera Maya.
The chef focuses on local ingredients with global techniques. The presentation is art. And the pacing of the meal is perfect — you're there for hours, but you never feel rushed.
This is where I go for celebrations or when I want to be impressed.
Book: Reserve well ahead. This isn't a walk-in kind of place.
The experience: Multi-course tasting menu. Budget 2-3 hours and $150+ per person before drinks.
Worth it? For special occasions, absolutely. Not for casual dinners.
Moro at Habitas — The Daily Go-To
I already mentioned Moro, but it deserves its own section. This is where I eat most often in Tulum because the food is consistently excellent, the setting is beautiful (right on the beach), and the vibe is relaxed.
The menu is Moroccan-inspired Mediterranean, which sounds complicated but works perfectly. The shakshuka at breakfast, the lamb at dinner, the mezze spreads — it's all good.
And unlike a lot of Tulum restaurants, the prices, while not cheap, don't feel exploitative.
When to go: Breakfast for shakshuka and beach views. Dinner for the full experience.
What to order: The lamb tagine. The hummus. The cocktails are good too.
Worth it? Yes. This is quality food at beach club prices that actually feels justified.
Posada Margherita — The Italian Exception
Posada Margherita is a beachfront Italian restaurant that's been here since before Tulum got expensive, and somehow they've maintained both quality and character.
Fresh pasta made daily. Simple preparations. Good wine. And a setting right on the beach that makes every meal feel like a vacation.
I come here when I need a break from mezcal cocktails and want to eat carbs and drink wine like a civilized person.
What to order: Any pasta. The cacio e pepe is perfect in its simplicity.
When to go: Lunch by the beach is ideal. Dinner is lovely but busier.
Worth it? Yes. This is reliably excellent.
The Cenotes Worth Visiting
There are hundreds of cenotes around Tulum. Most are crowded, some are tourist traps, and a few are genuinely magical.
Gran Cenote — The Accessible One
Gran Cenote is the closest to Tulum town and the easiest to visit, which means it's also the most crowded. But it's popular for a reason — it's beautiful, well-maintained, and good for both swimming and snorkeling.
Go early (they open at 8am) or late afternoon after the tour groups leave. Mid-day is chaos.
The turtles are the highlight. You'll see them swimming around, completely unbothered by the humans. Bring an underwater camera.
Cost: Around $500 pesos (about $25-30 USD)
When to go: Early morning or late afternoon to avoid crowds.
Worth it? Yes, but manage your expectations about crowds.
Cenote Calavera — The Jump Spot
Cenote Calavera ("Skull Cenote") has three holes in the ground that look like a skull from above. More importantly, it's deep enough to jump into from the edge, which is thrilling if you're into that.
It's smaller and less impressive visually than Gran Cenote, but it's more fun. Fewer people, better energy, and the jump is a rush.
Cost: Around $200 pesos ($10-12 USD)
The vibe: Adventurous. This is for jumping and swimming, not serene contemplation.
Worth it? If you want something active and less touristy, yes.
Cenote Dos Ojos — The Underwater Caves
Dos Ojos is one of the longest cave systems in the world, and if you're into snorkeling or diving, this is where you go. The visibility is incredible — you can see 100+ feet through the crystal-clear water.
There are guided snorkel tours through the caves, which I highly recommend. Swimming through underwater caverns with light filtering through openings above is surreal and beautiful.
Cost: $500 pesos for entrance, more for guided tours
When to go: Morning for the best light filtering into the caves.
Worth it? If you like water and want something more adventurous than a typical swim, absolutely.
Cenote Zacil-Ha — The Hidden One
Zacil-Ha is tiny, less known, and usually empty — which is exactly why I like it. It's in the jungle, requires a bit of walking to reach, and feels like you've discovered something rather than bought a ticket to something.
The water is pristine. The setting is peaceful. And there's a rope swing if you're feeling playful.
Cost: Around $150 pesos ($8-10 USD)
Why I love it: Fewer people. More peaceful. Feels authentic.
Worth it? If you want a cenote experience without the crowds, yes.
What I Actually Skip in Tulum
The Ruins at Peak Hours
The Tulum ruins are beautiful — Mayan temples on a cliff overlooking the Caribbean. But visiting mid-day in high season is miserable. Too hot, too crowded, and you'll spend more time in line than actually seeing anything.
Go at opening (8am) or don't go at all.
Any Beach Club Without a Reservation
Just don't. You'll waste hours trying to get a spot, and even if you do, you'll end up with the worst location and maximum attitude from staff. Book ahead or skip it.
The "Free" Cenotes Near the Highway
These are usually dirty, crowded with locals on weekends (which is fine, but not the experience you're expecting), and lack the infrastructure to be enjoyable for tourists. Pay for the good ones.
Basically Anywhere Mid-Day in Peak Season
Tulum in high season (December-April) is packed. If you're trying to eat lunch at a popular spot at 2pm on a Saturday without a reservation, you're going to have a bad time.
Plan ahead or go off-peak.
How to Actually Do Tulum
Here's how I'd structure a Tulum trip:
Where to base yourself: Hotel zone if you want beach and are willing to pay for it. Tulum town if you want to save money and don't mind short taxi rides to the beach.
How long: 4-5 days is perfect. Enough time to settle in, do the beach clubs, explore cenotes, and have a few great meals without feeling rushed.
Getting around: Rent a car if you plan to explore cenotes and the Riviera Maya. Bike or taxi if you're staying in the hotel zone and just bouncing between beach clubs and restaurants.
When to go: November-April is peak season (dry, beautiful, expensive). May-October is rainy season (fewer crowds, better deals, but weather is unpredictable). I prefer November or April — good weather, slightly fewer people.
Budget reality: Tulum is expensive. A beach club day is $150-200 per person minimum. Hotels in the zone start at $200/night and go up fast. Factor this in.
Is Tulum Still Worth It?
Here's my honest answer: yes, but only if you go in with realistic expectations.
Tulum is not an undiscovered bohemian beach paradise. It's a crowded, expensive, Instagram-driven scene where everything costs triple what it should.
But — if you pick the right places, go at the right times, and embrace it for what it is rather than what it used to be — there's still magic. The cenotes are still incredible. The food scene is actually excellent. And there's something about jungle-meets-beach that still feels special.
Just don't expect perfection. Expect beauty mixed with chaos, and you'll have a great time.
Have questions about Tulum? I'm always happy to help. Find me on Instagram — I actually respond to DMs about this stuff.
— Teona x